Monday, February 12, 2007

Manish Arora


A nice black jacket by Noir

I was looking forward to today's Manish Arora catwalk. Last season the clothing and make up were visually stunning, a photographer's dream. The catwalk was scheduled for the end of the day around 6:15pm.

The times given by the BFC are just rough estimates of when shows start. If a show earlier in the day starts late or lasts longer than scheduled the shows that occur later on in the day get pushed back in order for the press to still get a chance to see the clothing, take pictures, video, and notes. It's not out of the ordinary for a show that is scheduled to start at 6:15pm to start an hour later or more.

So if a show starts at 6:15pm why not just show up at 7:15pm and do something else with your time? For the photographer it's all about positioning. Sure you mark off your space at the beginning of the week but the catwalk might be in a different venue where no marks have been made. A nice and bad thing about London Fashion week.

Different venues mean that photographers have to move their equipment from one location to another and compete all day for the best spots. It's a constant mad dash with setting up and striking equipment with little time for eating or going to the bathroom. There are those they think there should only be two venues. Shoot in one while the other is setting up or tearing down. Those photographers should shoot Toronto fashion week. It's only really one location.

I however prefer the multiple location shoots. Firstly because you get to see more of the city not only the location of the shoot but the travelling from one location to another. I suppose as someone that lives in London this could be a boring everyday nuisance.

There's also the interest of seeing a different venue. Yes it may have different lighting and yes your spot for shooting may not be as good as the last location but on the other hand it might be better. Pretty much anyone can shoot a model coming down a catwalk lit by Simon. It's when a photographer has to shoot from an odd angle that he/she has to find or crouch into a difficult position to get that shot. That's what really tests a photographer's mettle. I think this is part of the job I love most. Plus it usually makes for really great stories.


Lily Cole on the Noir catwalk

Another advantage of having differing locations is that is gives a chance for others to get a good spot to shoot. Specifically us international photographers that didn't get a good marked spot in the BFC tent because security told us to go away.


The cramped Top Shop venue

Speaking of interesting venues, the main Top Shop venue which was located in a basement while large in surface area really didn't have the height and felt cramped with all the pillars. Above is a shot from the side of the room. You can see all the photographers bunched up at the end of the runway. Not the most ideal shooting conditions as lights had to be located just above some of the photographer's heads.


A Peter Jensen design with a party hat

The next location while shooting Duro Olowu was much better. Higher ceilings, a stage, and more space for photographers with no annoying obstructions in the way (pillars, people). It was here that I met Annabel, aphotographer originally from New York who now lives in London. I used her yellow scarf to test the color temperature settings of my camera.


The Photographers at Conway Hall


My POV from the floor


Anne-Marie, a photographer from New York now living in England


Clothing designed by Duro Olowu

The next location, "The shop at BlueBird" had a small scaffold for photographers. I got there late but managed to get a spot shooting from the scaffold banister. Not the greatest spot to shoot from but there was no other place that wasn't taken. The advantage was that I could look around at other things while others were setting up. I looked behind us (the photographers) to notice the part of the room with all the light bulbs. Cool, but I wondered what the electricity bill came to each month.


The Shop at Blue Bird, SW3


A Sinestro custom? Designed by Louise Goldin


Another design by Louise Goldin


"Poor Naomi"


"Grab my Wiener"


In front of the fashion bus

Going from location to location also gives you time to back up images from your memory cards to your hard drive while sitting in comfort on the fashion bus. Yep, the BFC provides press and accredited photographers with transport via three buses (there were only two last season). The nice thing about taking the bus is that they know where they're going. The disadvantage is that you arrive when all the other photographers arrive. This means that if you can get off the bus first you're more likely to get a better spot to shoot from than if you're the last. Not always but usually. If a show is really worth seeing some photographers will skip a show and make their way to the venue of choice by themselves beating the reat of the crowd.


John Rocha


Closer shot to see knit detail


Manish Arora's "Star Wars" outfit


Design by Manish Arora

One of the newspapers would refer to Manish Arora's outfits as something as seen in Star Wars. Personally I would have put the outfits in a Star Trek movie. Perhaps because it's the altering of the face by putting a mask, makeup, bord implant, crinkle in the nose, bumps on the head, while keeping all the other characteristics humanoid.


The newspaper agent near Victoria station

After the day of shooting fashion week catwalks I had the privilege of joing Andrew and Josie to visit a shoe designer across town. Katarina Mutic of "Mootich" was donating shoes for Andrew's model at the Metropolitan. The shoes made with leather that was hand picked by Katarina and assembled in Italy were vibrant in color and oh so soft to the touch. Inspecting the boots and shoes closely you could get an appreciation for the detail and craftsmanship.


Katarina, shoe designer


Mootich boots


Peace and Love, Yoga car

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

Yes I can see why you think that designer should be catagorized under Star Trek and not Star Wars.

Anonymous said...

havin' fun yet?

Wade Marshall said...

Grab my wiener!